舌尖上的航海丨第11集 非洲“神肉”風(fēng)波

“神州”號(hào)輪機(jī)長(zhǎng)繆舟的表妹在老家縣城開了家“比爾通”餐館，號(hào)稱“非洲神肉”。

一時(shí)顧客盈門，生意十分火爆。

所謂“非洲神肉”是由各種野味特制而成：無論牛腿肉、鴕鳥、野鴨、羚羊、甚至鱷魚、獅子、河馬……，都能制成“比爾通”美食。

“比爾通”起源于十七世紀(jì)非洲，各類飛禽走獸，由生肉浸泡果醋，再加上大量香料曬干烘烤而成，外觀十分粗糙，切開后卻黑里透紅。松嫩可口，還帶有特殊的香味，是下酒的最佳食材。

“比爾通”餐館瞬時(shí)在縣城掀起一陣“神肉”熱，也引起當(dāng)?shù)刂鞴軝C(jī)關(guān)的注意，是否有勃“野生動(dòng)物保護(hù)法”？

就在“比爾通”餐館處境十分尷尬時(shí)，繆舟遠(yuǎn)航休假回到老家。

近幾年，繆舟隨“神州”號(hào)頻繁來往于亞洲與非洲之間，不僅游覽了非洲綺麗的風(fēng)光，也飽食了非洲的美食。寫下了多篇有關(guān)非洲的遠(yuǎn)航日記。

面對(duì)人們的質(zhì)疑?？娭叟d致勃勃地拿出“遠(yuǎn)航日記”；《神秘的非洲“神肉”》頓時(shí)吸引了人們的眼球。

看完這篇論述詳實(shí)的精彩日記，人們的疑問頓時(shí)“云消霧散”

一年前，繆舟的表妹看到《神秘的非洲“神肉”》，突發(fā)奇想；在家鄉(xiāng)開一家類似的餐館。這個(gè)想法得到繆舟的支持，考慮到國內(nèi)的《野生動(dòng)物保護(hù)法》，在選材方面做了特別的安排；凡被保護(hù)的動(dòng)物一律排除之外……。

繆舟《神秘的非洲“神肉”》日記，打消了人們的顧慮。

“比爾通”餐館更加火爆。

為滿足廣大顧客的好奇和需求，《神秘的非洲“神肉”》通篇打印懸掛在餐廳的正面墻上。

九月二十日 晴 微風(fēng)

“神州”號(hào)又來到非洲。

非洲，廣闊而神奇的大地。在許多人眼里；非洲是個(gè)尚未完全開發(fā)的地區(qū)，充斥著貧窮和戰(zhàn)亂。當(dāng)我踏上這塊神奇的土地時(shí)，不僅驚嘆它的美麗富饒，還贊嘆它的“古怪”美食“比爾通”。

“比爾通”的起源和發(fā)現(xiàn)，緣與非洲至今依然保持的狩獵傳統(tǒng)。在赤道幾內(nèi)亞、咯麥隆、肯尼亞等地，以食用野味來彰顯身份。特別是珍稀動(dòng)物。其中最為特殊的是“叢林肉”，蝙蝠肉在非洲到處可見，這種夜行動(dòng)物在市場(chǎng)上頗受歡迎。由于數(shù)量多價(jià)格便宜，普通百姓都能享用。西非的尼日利亞人認(rèn)為；蝙蝠肉可以治療不孕癥。在非洲許多國家，婚宴上淋著些芒果汁的蝙蝠肉是不可缺少的“當(dāng)家菜”。

此外，昆蟲在非洲的餐桌上同樣是美食。非洲人喜歡食用白蟻。其中帶翅膀的品種為“上品”，即可生吃也可油炸。曬干用鹽干炒便為“零食”。如果把白蟻干與玉米粉混在一起蒸透淋上醬汁，便是地道的“正餐”。

雖然，現(xiàn)時(shí)非洲今非昔比，人們?nèi)忝嬔纳硞鹘y(tǒng)仍未斷絕。在肯尼亞和坦桑尼亞的一些原始部落喝動(dòng)物鮮血，吃生肉為生的習(xí)俗隨處可見。

好客的非洲人通常把傳統(tǒng)演變成待客之道。在北非的蘇丹?？救蚴羌页５摹把缈筒恕薄Ｑ蚋问菍９┵F賓享用的“特品”；將剛宰殺的羊取出肝臟，淘洗干凈后直接切塊蘸著專制的醬料食用。如果客人不肯吃，是對(duì)主人的不敬。

東非的埃塞俄比亞。人們酷愛生吃牛肉；新宰殺的帶有體溫鮮牛肉里脊最受歡迎。連國宴上都有“生牛肉宴”。把牛肉切成丁，拌上特別的佐料，用當(dāng)?shù)靥赜械陌l(fā)酵薄餅“英吉托”裹著吃，是地道的“國菜”。同樣在非洲的島國毛里求斯。這里是深海垂釣的天堂，人們常把捕獲得近半噸的鯊魚，做成“全鯊宴”，款待遠(yuǎn)方尊貴的客人……。

誰知，繆舟的這篇內(nèi)容和文采并茂的遠(yuǎn)航日記，掀起一股非洲“神肉”熱。不僅在老家縣城十分火爆。據(jù)說，“比爾通”在國內(nèi)其它地方也悄然興起。

The cousin of Miao Dan, the Captain of the Chinese cargo ship Shen Zhou, opened a

restaurant that specialized in Biltong in her hometown in China. She named the restaurant

“Biltong Meat from Africa”.

Right after it opened, customers from nearby towns swarmed through its gates,

enchanted by the delicious Biltong meat.

Biltong is produced by various types of meat, ranging anywhere from beef to ostrich,

geese, lamb, and even hippos, crocodiles, and lions. Originating in the 17th century in Africa,

Biltong is made by slicing meat into fillets, strips, or flat pieces and marinating it in fruit

vinegar before adding all sorts of spices on its surface. Biltong is baked and dried in the sun,

making it rough and burned on the outside, but tender and juicy on the inside. With its chewy

consistency and unique flavor, many liked to pair it with wine.

The Biltong restaurant quickly took the Chinese countryside by storm, but it also raised

certain suspicions in some of its visitors. Tourists who stopped by the restaurant often

wondered, “Did this Biltong restaurant adhere to Wildlife Protection Laws?”

Just as the atmosphere at the Biltong restaurant became more and more tense and

awkward, Miao Dan returned from his voyage with the Shen Zhou on a short vacation.

Before his break, Miao Dan had been traveling between African and Asia with the Shen Zhou

for many years. Not only has he visited the breathtaking countries and seen marvelous

attractions, he also had his fair share of African cuisines. Inspired by the cultural wonders of

Africa, Miao Dan kept a journal of his experiences, and occasionally wrote down recipes of

African dishes in it.

Unfazed by the allegations against his cousin’s restaurant, Miao Dan confidently took

out a passage from his journal titled “The Intriguing Biltong Meat” and printed copies of it to

scatter across the restaurant.

Miao Dan’s journal entry promptly cleared the customers’ concerns.

About a year ago, Miao Dan’s cousin read the same entry from Miao Dan’s journal and

was inspired to open a Biltong restaurant in their hometown. Miao Dan supported his cousin

all along the way, and told her to take into consideration the Wildlife Protection Laws.

Together, they picked only suitable ingredients and sustainable means of preparation.

The Biltong restaurant’s connection to this fascinating seafarer’s story gained it

increased approval from tourists in China. Miao Dan’s cousin, who was always proud of

Miao Dan’s achievements, framed a copy of Miao Dan’s journal entry and hung it up on the

walls of the restaurant.

September 20th

The Shen Zhou has once again arrived in Africa.

Africa’s land is vast and magical. In the eyes of many foreigners, the countries of Africa

may seem like they are not fully developed, thus bringing about images of poverty and chaos.

But when I stepped foot onto this extraordinary continent, I was welcomed by nothing but its

distinctive beauty and its strange yet flavorsome meat cuisine, Biltong.

I found out that the origins of the Biltong dates back several centuries, and that it is

directly influenced by traditional methods of hunting and meat conservation here in Africa. In

countries like Guinea, Cameroon, and Kenya, people used hunting and cooking rare meats as

a way of demonstrating their personality and place in society.

One of the most noteworthy types of meat is bushmeat. Monkey meat, snake meat, rat

meat, and bat meat are prevalent in the markets of Africa, and are very popular. In Western

African countries such as Nigeria, bushmeat is a frequently served delicacy at family dinners

and wedding banquets, and it is even believed to cure infertility.

In addition to bushmeat, insects are habitually served as a specialty dish in many

families. People in South Africa like to eat termites, which are rich in healthy proteins and

fatty acids. Termites with wings are particularly considered luxurious, and can be eaten raw,

deep-fried, or dried and stir fried and eaten as snacks. To make a formal meal out of termites,

chefs mix it with cornmeal, steam them together, and drizzle it with a special sauce.

Although Africa has changed plentily with the rise of globalization and the spread of

foreign cuisines, locals in countries like Kenya and Tanzania have kept the practice of

drinking animal blood, and the consumption of raw meat can still be found almost anywhere.

African people are exceptionally welcoming to visitors. In the North African country of

Sudan, a full lamb barbecue is a widely-used way of showing hospitality. To show gratitude

to the most esteemed guests, the lamb’s liver is removed, rinsed, sliced into small pieces, and

dipped into a homemade sauce. It is seen as a sign of disrespect if the guest refuses to indulge

in these dishes.

In the East African country Ethiopia, people love to eat raw beef. Tenderloin from cows

that were recently slaughtered is the most favored. The beef is firstly minced, then mixed

with seasonal spices, and wrapped in Injera pancakes. This dish is served even in the most

important events, including state banquets, as a national dish of Ethiopia.

Likewise, in the island nation of Mauritius where deep-sea fishing is widespread,

fishermen often caught large, heavy sharks and prepared them as “shark feasts” to serve to

visitors who had travelled there from afar.

As Miao Dan left for another voyage on the Shen Zhou, little did he know that his

journal entry and the restaurant it inspired gradually became more celebrated in the Chinese

countryside. Its stories circulated across the entire country, igniting a new love for Biltong

meat and other African cuisines amongst Chinese citizens and tourists.